Steinhatchee, FL to Roberts Bayou, AL

Total Miles Traveled 2737

On Tuesday April 17^th before leaving Steinhatchee, we had heard about a waterfall a few miles up the river from the marina.  We decided to go exploring with Charlie and Robin in our dinghy’s to see if we could find it.  There are several private docks, condominiums, restaurants, and marinas along the shoreline.  

Hungry Howie"s Pizza

 River Haven Marina, we stayed here last fall.

 Fiddlers Restaurant and Motel

The farther up river we traveled we noticed the current increasing.

We passed this sign “Do not enter Rocks 100 feet”.

After rounding the bend it was obvious the Steinhatchee Falls were rocks in the riverbed and the previous day’s rain raised the river level above the rocks.  We turned around before approaching the turbulent water and risking prop damage.

Sea Hag Marina

At daybreak on April 19^th we left Steinhatchee on our last leg of crossing the Gulf of Mexico to Carrabelle, Fl an 85 mile cruise.  Every time we cross this section of Florida’s Big Bend, we see spotted dolphins, this time was no exception, we had seven travel with us today.

We also picked up a hitchhiker, we’re not sure when it came aboard, but we were out over 10 miles at one point during the day.  I clapped my hands to see if it would fly off but it was obvious it was exhausted and not going anywhere.  We had no idea what it was but it was very colorful, a brilliant purple with a bright red and yellow bill and really weird looking feet.  At first I thought it had fishing line tangled up in its feet but not the case.

When we arrived at Carrabelle we were greeted by our good friends we completed part of the loop with, Hamp on “Gracie”, and Jeff on “2 Infinity”.  They are returning Hamps boat “Gracie” back to Melbourne from Panama City.  Kim the dock master said they had a local man that took in injured birds and nursed them back to health before releasing them.  Hamp placed the bird in a cardboard box and took it to the marina office for us. 

This is what I found on the net about the Purple Gallinule:

Swims on the surface of water like a duck and walks on floating plants rather like a chicken.

Dark Purple head, neck, and underside.

Green Back

Red bill tipped with yellow

Light blue forehead

Bill triangular like a chicken’s, not flat like a duck’s

Legs are yellow.

We all met at Fathoms Raw Oyster Bar and introduced Charlie and Robin to our looper friends.  We had a great visit talking about our experiences together on the Great Loop.  I’m sure we’ll cross wakes again during future adventures.

We departed Carrabelle April 20^th and made the 30 mile cruise to Apalachicola, the wind has picked up again so it’s nice to be back in the protected waters of the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway.  Florida and Georgia have been in a battle over water for 30 years, Florida’s complaint is that the cities and farmers of Georgia are not managing the fresh water efficiently reducing the amount needed for oyster production downstream and killing the oyster industry.   Apalachicola used to be the oyster capital of the world providing 90 percent of Florida’s oysters and 10 percent nationwide.  From what we are told most of the oysters come from Louisiana and Texas today.   We stopped by our favorite Oyster Bar “The Hole in the Wall” and got the scoop from the owner.  He said they still serve Apalachicola oysters as they have been a family owned business for decades and know the local oysterman.  He showed us a tag that comes with every box of oysters sold that shows the date and location harvested.  He confirmed that most restaurants now get there oysters from other states and oyster farms. 

After one night at Apalachicola we continued north to White City, we have stayed at the free dock several times while passing through and planned to stay here a couple of days while another storm front approaches.   We usually don’t leave the boat, but Charlie walked off the dock and noticed a sign indicating no overnight docking permitted (the sign faces away from the dock so when you tie up you don’t’ see it).  He talked to a local fisherman and was told the local authorities will ask you to leave, and could impose a $500 fine for ignoring their request.   White City is not an incorporated town and there is no local police or town marshals available to contact.  We decided to continue on to Port St Joe.

We left Port St Joe April 23^rd and anchored at Smack Bayou, across the bay from Panama City.  This dolphin was jumping next to the boat in East Bay, it didn't turn out in the picture but the entire underside of the dolphin was pink.  When it would jump, it turned upside down. 

On April 24^th we continued on to an anchorage at Choctawhatchee Bay.  Our friends from back home Brad and Nancy live close to here and a nice waterfront restaurant is also located here.  It was nice visiting with them over dinner.  We also got a peak at Nancy’s new ride, a sharp two seater Mini Cooper.

We left our anchorage and planned to stay at Fort Walton Beach City dock but decided to continue on to Pensacola.  We planned to anchor at Ft McCray but when we arrived dredging equipment was scattered everywhere as they were working on the channel close to the island.  We decided to push on to Roberts Bayou, one of our favorite stops when passing though this area.  We’ll anchor here for a couple of days and let a weak front pass through then continue on to Mobile on Saturday April 28^th.

Punta Blanca Island to Steinhatchee, FL

Total Miles Traveled 2420

On our last day at Punta Blanca Island (one of our favorite anchorages in all of North America), we decided to try to find the Tunnel of Love.  We heard about it during our loop when passing through here in 2015, but didn’t have the time to look for it.  It is located about 2 miles or so from our anchorage, and it’s not easy to find, camouflaged with overhanging mangroves at the entrance, you’re not sure if you are entering a dead end or entering the tunnel.

Cayo Costa is a barrier island that forms the northern portion of Pine Island Sound; Cabbage Key is tucked into its eastern shore near the middle of the island.  An indention called Murdock Bayou cuts into the island.  In past times the Bayou was open to the Gulf of Mexico and provided passage from the sound.  This wildlife preserve has always been a special place…the Calusa Indians, European explorers, fishing schooners from Cuba, local fishing families; even smugglers have found this spot useful.

Each passing storm moves the sand of the beaches as it sees fit.  A strip of beach closes the cut now.  All that remains is a narrow tidal creek where the water floods and ebbs with the moon.  A canopy of mangroves bathes the creek with cool air.  Soft light filters down through the leaves and branches.  At the western end the sky opens up and the creek widens briefly before ending at the spectacular Cayo Costa beach.  This is a magical place…the Tunnel of Love.

 Yes, we had a close eye out in the branches for snakes and along the shore for creepy crawlers.

 That is a bald eagle in the tree close to shore.

 The way back...I think?

We had an awesome dinner when we returned to the boat.

Moni painted a great mural on our door mat, I really like the signal flags in the lower corner MJ.

On April 2^nd, we took a side trip to Punta Gorda, we have passed it up several times and decided to check it out on our way north.  Kevin and Jill from “Chasing 80” drove up from Ft Myers and gave us the grand tour, thanks guys, we had a great time!

Since we had mild winds, we continued our way north on April 3^rd.  Charlotte Harbor is a huge body of water several miles long and wide, not fun if the wind is greater than 10 mph.  After leaving the harbor and reentering the GICW, we anchored near Cape Haze Florida and took the dinghy to Don Pedro Island, accessible only by private boat or ferry.  The island is home to several endangered species such as West Indian Manatees, gopher tortoises, bald eagles and American Oystercatchers. 

On the Gulf side of the barrier island is a 1 mile stretch of white sandy beach.

This piece of driftwood has turned into a work of art by passing beachgoers. 

On April 5^th we anchored at Sarasota then anchored again at Redington Shores to wait out a passing cold front and rain.  We moved to the Gulfport Florida marina on April 8^th as another front with rain and winds were forecast the next few days.  This gave us an opportunity to rent a car and stock up on groceries, get haircuts, and take care of our laundry. 

On our way to Redington Shores, not use to seeing horses along the waterway.

Our next stop on April 11^th was Dunedin Florida where we planned to reunite with our friends Charlie and Robin on the “The Lower Place”.  We met them last Spring near Stuart Florida and crossed to the Bahamas with them, then met them again at Green Turtle Bay when they were finishing their loop, and again last Fall at Columbus Mississippi on our way to the Keys.  They are also heading back home so we’ll be traveling together for a while.   

Leaving Dunedin at daybreak, thanks for the picture Ivy and Jacqui!

Crossing the Gulf to Cedar Key with “The Lower Place”

We left Cedar Key at first light, and planned to be northbound before increasing winds from the south arrived.  At least that was the plan; we had 3-4 footers coming out of the channel into the Gulf before turning north, my anchor almost dipped in the waves a few times.  Once we turned north east we had the wind and the Cedar Keys behind us so the cruise to Steinhatchee was not bad at all.  Oh by the way, we made this decision on Friday the 13^th.

We arrived at Steinhatchee at the Sea Hag Marina about 2:30, the wind and waves on our stern gave us a pretty good push for the 60 mile run.  The marina had a fishing tournament scheduled for Saturday April 14^th so we decided to drop the dinghy in the water and participate.  What a great day!

Okay, we didn’t really catch those fish, we just watched everybody else bring them in.  Charlie asked one the fishing guides if we could take a liars picture.  He said what’s that?  Charlie explained that we would stand behind the board and lie about catching them.

There is a sad story behind the tournament though; we had heard that fishing tournament was in memory of the original founder, which used the proceeds to fund an animal shelter organization.  We happened to be sitting next to the founders sister and she told Moni and Robin that her sister and husband were flying back home for Christmas in 2016.  They were driving to the airport to meet them and were texting each other as both were going to arrive at the airport about same time.  Her sister texted that her GPS indicated they would be at the airport in 8 minutes, and she texted back and said to slow down, her GPS says we won’t be there for 9 minutes.  That’s that last communication they had as the plane crashed killing both her sister and husband in dense fog on their approach.

We’ll be at Steinhatchee a few days waiting out another band of storms heading across the south.  The front is only a few miles away as I write this blog.  This is why we like to be tied up at a marina when we have approaching storms.

The wind has now weakened and only light rain continues to fall, we should have clearing before dark today.  It looks like Wednesday though before the Gulf will calm down enough for us to continue on to Carrabelle and back into the protected waters of the GICW.